Taking into consideration the client’s own sense of style and providing him with fresh ideas, high quality tailored garments are made specifically for the individual. Virtually everything is customisable, from the cloth and lining to the colour of the buttons. This alternative approach to shopping mens clothing brings together aspects of traditional tailoring and contemporary international fashion.
Before work begins implementing the garment ideas around overall style and purpose are discussed. Arguably the most important part of the whole process it’s essential to have a clear understanding of these points.
Purpose might be as simple as “a smart suit for work”, or more intricate: “a contemporary styled, lightweight suit suitable for work and the weekend”. The client might have a clear idea regarding style, or the starting point might be a blank canvas. Either are ok as John Goodwin will guide as much as is required.
Regarding styling, a core strength of John Goodwin is understanding fashion trends past and present and relating this back to the individual's own style and practical requirements. Over time this picture is enhanced and each garment offers a new opportunity to explore new ideas.
At this early stage fundamental styling options are established: classic or contemporary; single or double breasted; peak or notch lapel? From this foundation the rest of the garment’s styling is built through embellishment.
Choice is one of the strengths of Personal Tailoring however it can be overwhelming presented with so much. Some like to take time sifting through many fabrics, whilst others like to be presented with a smaller selection. We're flexible how we work but will always make the best recommendations based on the practical requirements and styling that has been identified previously.
The fabric is fundamental to the overall style of the garment. Simply put, there are thousands of fabrics to choose from; presented in books from the various mills we partner with. The mills normally batch fabrics by colour, weight or material.
For White Label we have created our own selection of around ninety fabrics that offer a good cross section including some of our favourites. However, like Black Label there are many more available if you wish.
The garment is of course tailored to follow the contours of the client’s body however there is also the innate shape of the garment, often labelled as ‘construction’. It is through the process of construction the garment’s character is defined in part. In other words the construction of the garment can be relatively soft (characteristic of Italian heritage) or relatively hard (characteristic of British heritage). John Goodwin suits take influences from both and we provide either, depending on stylistic and practical requirements.
We also know which fabrics are best suited to the various constructions and we advise accordingly. The key is to keep the matter of both style and practicality in mind at all times. Unlike ready-made suits it is this type of detail that makes tailored garments a more interesting affair.
It’s in the finer details where luxury often resides.
By this point the fundamental styling of the garment; the fabric; the lining; the construction; the fit have all already been established, but what of the finer details?
We go beyond the basic level of customisation available with ready-made garments, such as finishing of trousers (plain hem or turned up). Other customisation can include: type and positioning of buttons; vent options; lapel options; trouser waistband options (e.g. belt loop or traditional side adjuster); stitching options (e.g. 1 or 5mm ‘edge stitching’). All these and more contribute to make Personal Tailoring a far more involving and unique experience.
Extensive work goes into every garment, each one taking weeks to produce with hours of highly skilled work to bring the garment to life. Each garment is not only made to order but, in terms of both style and fit made expressly for you.
We collaborate with a handful of carefully selected tailoring partners from England and Italy. These partners make garments for the most recognised fashion houses from all over the globe and John Goodwin garments are made with exactly the same methods.
Black Label includes additional hand work, however all John Goodwin garments are made to exacting standards which can be truly felt when worn.
The whole process is nearing completion and soon the garment will be ready to take home. But first it is tweaked in one or more places. For example, the thigh might need taking in by half an inch, or the sleeves shortening by a quarter of an inch. This is to ensure the fit is comfortable and correct in all the key areas.
Once this final work is complete the garment is finished. What started as a book of fabrics has been made into a high quality garment over weeks of careful work. It is now possible to see it in all its splendour.
John Goodwin will advise how to keep the garment in peak condition so you can obtain many years of wear. This includes adjustments that can be made in the future should your body shape change.